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Hemsedal
Overview
Smaller, less crowed, and generally more relaxed making it a favourite for families.Second only in size to sprawling Oppdal, Hemsedal can be considered to have the best mix of terrain, scenery and facilities found in Scandinavia. Having benefited from substantial investment on the last five years, Hemsedal is a favourite with rich folk from Oslo and, increasingly, international visitors. Dramatically different from the Alps – in peaks, amazing light, and nature (which is far more accessible) – Hemsedal is also without the flashiness and high prices. Overall the mountains are incredibly picturesque and not terribly steep, and the latitude of the place means lots of snow and a long season. Orientation
The town itself is actually a mile or so (five minutes in car or bus shuttle) from the purpose-built resort that has clusters of ski in/ski out cabins, supermarket, shops, apartments, restaurants, bars and clubs – most of which are to be found at the bottom of the main green (11) and red (10) runs.
The slopes
With 24 lifts and just over 40km of slopes, Hemsedal is not going to satisfying the mileage-hungry, but it does boast a wide selection of well-groomed runs for skier and boarders of all standards, with a multitude of easy blues and greens perfect for beginners, all the way up to wide opens reds for those who have a couple of weeks’ skiing under their belts. The nursery slope at the base of the mountain is easily accessible.
The children's area – the largest in Norway – is a big draw for families; very safe, open and fun and about as a comfortable a place you could wish to take your kids to learn to ski or snowboard.
There are long, long greens to build confidence – you can catch a series of linked green runs right from the top of the highest peak, Totten, right down to the base.
The village
Hemsedal itself has a small-town feel. Despite it having grown considerably in the last few years, wealthy Norwegian skiers mix still mix with the small local farming communities to give Hemsedal a different feel to your average resort town. The main destination for après ski is Hemsedal Café, a former haunt of Norway’s Crown Prince Haakon and the place where the younger crowds flock to drink Ringnes beer, chomp on the burgers, dance, and surf on the free wifi. Other restaurants and cafes in the resort serve up the staples like pasta, goulash, burgers, pizza and a few Norwegian classics like Kjøttboller (meatballs) to hungry skiers. For a good pizza, head for Peppes.
Our recommendations:
One thousand metres up in the mountains, this secluded ‘hotel’ has a mix of 12 individually designed, turf-roofed, self-catering cabins, converted from old farmhouses, around an old manor house with accommodation and a fine-dining restaurant. www.dvgl.no
Skarsnuten Hotel
Owned by the same company as Harahorn, this eye-catching glass, steel and slate design hotel could not be more different, with its 37 sleek modern rooms. The hotel has wonderful views of the virtually all the Hemsedal slopes and the restaurant/bar is a great place to relax and take in the view after a days skiing. It’s right next to the slopes, so you won’t have to go far!
Self-catering
If you are keen to get out of the resort and experience the winter wonderland, a number of well equipped cabins are available to rent at reasonable rates (you’ll need a car), not far from Hemsedal: (try Grønndalen or, slightly further away, Lykkja). Here you can utilise the miles and miles of immaculately prepared (and often illuminate), cross country ski tracks. Visit www.hemsedal.com for more information on accommodation in the area.
Gervase Clarke
Smaller, less crowed, and generally more relaxed making it a favourite for families.Second only in size to sprawling Oppdal, Hemsedal can be considered to have the best mix of terrain, scenery and facilities found in Scandinavia. Having benefited from substantial investment on the last five years, Hemsedal is a favourite with rich folk from Oslo and, increasingly, international visitors. Dramatically different from the Alps – in peaks, amazing light, and nature (which is far more accessible) – Hemsedal is also without the flashiness and high prices. Overall the mountains are incredibly picturesque and not terribly steep, and the latitude of the place means lots of snow and a long season. Orientation
The town itself is actually a mile or so (five minutes in car or bus shuttle) from the purpose-built resort that has clusters of ski in/ski out cabins, supermarket, shops, apartments, restaurants, bars and clubs – most of which are to be found at the bottom of the main green (11) and red (10) runs.
The slopes
With 24 lifts and just over 40km of slopes, Hemsedal is not going to satisfying the mileage-hungry, but it does boast a wide selection of well-groomed runs for skier and boarders of all standards, with a multitude of easy blues and greens perfect for beginners, all the way up to wide opens reds for those who have a couple of weeks’ skiing under their belts. The nursery slope at the base of the mountain is easily accessible.
The children's area – the largest in Norway – is a big draw for families; very safe, open and fun and about as a comfortable a place you could wish to take your kids to learn to ski or snowboard.
There are long, long greens to build confidence – you can catch a series of linked green runs right from the top of the highest peak, Totten, right down to the base.
The village
Hemsedal itself has a small-town feel. Despite it having grown considerably in the last few years, wealthy Norwegian skiers mix still mix with the small local farming communities to give Hemsedal a different feel to your average resort town. The main destination for après ski is Hemsedal Café, a former haunt of Norway’s Crown Prince Haakon and the place where the younger crowds flock to drink Ringnes beer, chomp on the burgers, dance, and surf on the free wifi. Other restaurants and cafes in the resort serve up the staples like pasta, goulash, burgers, pizza and a few Norwegian classics like Kjøttboller (meatballs) to hungry skiers. For a good pizza, head for Peppes.
Our recommendations:
One thousand metres up in the mountains, this secluded ‘hotel’ has a mix of 12 individually designed, turf-roofed, self-catering cabins, converted from old farmhouses, around an old manor house with accommodation and a fine-dining restaurant. www.dvgl.no
Skarsnuten Hotel
Owned by the same company as Harahorn, this eye-catching glass, steel and slate design hotel could not be more different, with its 37 sleek modern rooms. The hotel has wonderful views of the virtually all the Hemsedal slopes and the restaurant/bar is a great place to relax and take in the view after a days skiing. It’s right next to the slopes, so you won’t have to go far!
Self-catering
If you are keen to get out of the resort and experience the winter wonderland, a number of well equipped cabins are available to rent at reasonable rates (you’ll need a car), not far from Hemsedal: (try Grønndalen or, slightly further away, Lykkja). Here you can utilise the miles and miles of immaculately prepared (and often illuminate), cross country ski tracks. Visit www.hemsedal.com for more information on accommodation in the area.
Gervase Clarke
Resort Facts
Green runs: 21
Blue runs: 11
Red runs: 9
Ski schools: 2
Green runs: 21
Blue runs: 11
Red runs: 9
Ski schools: 2
Access to slopes? 12345
Beginner’s area: 12345
Overall: 12345
Cost: Medium
Getting there: Allow three and a half hours for the 220km from Oslo International, or four hours from Ryanair-serviced Torp.
The Green 27 run from Totten
©Gervase Clarke
Good scenery - it's Scandinavia's highest point
©Gervase Clarke
Lunch on the slopes
©Hemsedal Turistkontor
Skarsnuten's Harahorn lodges
©Hemsedal Turistkontor