Courchevel 1850 is a byword for high-cost, high-class skiing. Come during ‘Russian Week’ and watch money being spent like never before. However, all this aside, 1850 is a dream to learn in; there are copious green runs, the facilities and the snow maintenance are fantastic, and the high altitude means good snow retention and a long season.
Orientation
As you drive up through Courchevel you pass through the separate resorts that
make up this chunk of the huge Trois Vallées ski area, with links to Meribel
and Val Thorens. La Tania is set aside somewhat, to the east, and 1650 is a
distance west. There’s also 1100 (St Bon), 1300 (Le Praz), and 1550.
The slopes
The ZEN learner area at 1850 consists of a couple of very flat, safe slopes
that are a hundred metres or so from a stop on the Jardin Alpin cable car, and
also near the road if you’re being dropped off. Magic carpets get learners up
the slope with maximum ease.
There’s another learner zone with button lifts
(Ferme and Altiport) for getting confidence up; again, these are fenced off
from other skiers, and are flat and open. When you’re ready to move onto
greens, the long, wide, gentle run of Bellecote is the first stop, followed by
Renards and Verdons, while Jardin Alpin has one or two hazards, like an icy track
under a roadbridge and a sharp right-hand turn near the bottom, that require a
little confidence.
These pistes (and others) end up at the Croisette, and this area is
moderately steep and very busy.
If you are a second or third-timer, there is a huge amount
of fairly gentle blue and green tracks in 1850 and down to 1650 too.
There are also ZEN nursery slopes at La Tania, La Praz and 1650.
Piste and snow management is first-class in Courcehvel.
The village
1850 is more 'villagey' than many high-altitude resorts, but to describe it as charming may be hyperbole. Often described as Bond Street on ice, 1850 certainly caters for its upmarket
guests; should you feel the desire for a new mink or diamond necklace, you're spoilt for choice. But there are practical sides too, like takeaway salads for a cheap
lunch, and a daily market in case you need an extra fleece or a kilo of local
honey. 1650 is decidedly more utilitarian, while La Tania, St Bon and Le Praz each retain a village atmosphere.
Our recommendations (all 1850):
Hotel Les Sherpas
A very friendly three-star establishment just a short walk from the smaller ZEN
learner zone, and a link to the green Jardin Alpin run, so you can start skiing
without even queuing for a lift. There’s a heated bootroom for you to stash
your skis, a welcome indoor pool, and the restaurant has very high standards.
Rooms are comfortable, there are inter-connecting rooms for families, many have
small balconies (great for cooling drinks).
Hotel Palais des Neiges
Ultra-luxury right on the Jardin Alpin run, this is a true ski-in/ski-out hotel
with all the mod cons. Not very lovely from the outside, within it is charming
and very comfortable. Rooms are huge and have balconies; some have little
bunk-beds in an alcove for the young ones. There’s a cigar room, a very grand
restaurant where vast and excellent breakfasts are served, a bootroom with
direct access to the piste, and a very indulgent health complex including pool
and Jacuzzi.
Restaurant Cap Horn
If you only pop in for a glass of wine and an omelette, a
visit to this slopeside restaurant near the little aerodrome above the larger
ZEN learner zone is worth a visit to see how conspicuous expenditure is done at
altitude.
You could drop more money on lunch than you spent on your entire ski
holiday, and if you fancy a celebration, this is the place to do it.
Green runs: 23
Blue runs: 22
Red runs: 32
Ski schools: 8
Access to slopes? 12345
Beginner’s area: 12345
Overall: 12345
Cost:
High
Getting there: Allow three hours for the drive from
Geneva and two hours for the 90km from Chambery. 16km from the ski train stop at
Moutiers.
