By James Mulcare
Overview
Cauterets, based in the French Pyrenees, is the real hidden gem of skiing in France. The beauty of skiing here is the lack of crowds on the slopes and prices which are typically half those found in the Alps.This family friendly resort is perfect for week long holidays or even short stay and weekend breaks. Cauterets is a truly French ski resort which gets some of the highest levels of snow fall in France.
This mountain sports playground and Victorian Thermal spa town is perfect for beginners and intermediates alike. There is also enough to keep even the most advanced skiers amused with off piste options. The ski station at Cirque du Lys is an east facing sunny bowl starting at 1730m going up to 2415m. The result is a great ski area that retains the snow far longer than any of the other nearby resorts, giving Cauterets some of the best snow conditions any where in the Pyrenees. Typical ski seasons run from the last week of November right through to the end of April, meaning Cauterets is one of the first stations to open and last to shut.
Orientation
Based in the Haute Pyrenees department in the SW of France, this ski station is easily reached by nearby airports such as Lourdes (35mins away) and Pau (1hr 10 mins away) served by budget airlines like Ryan Air. Once you are in the town of Cauterets there is no need for additional transport to get to the ski lifts as the cable car runs from the town centre.
Based at the foot of the Pyrenees National Park, the main ski area is at Cirque du Lys with the nearby famous Pont d'Espagne being more for cross country skiing and snow-shoe walking.
The Slopes
Access to the ski fields are via a high speed 8 man cable car system (2000 skiers/hour) taking just 10 minutes running directly from the town centre, making getting to the slopes very easy with a fantastic panoramic view on the way up.
The nursery slopes and first two green slopes are accessed directly from the main station/café/ on arrival at Cirque du Lys ski area. There is a magic carpet ski lift for beginners plus 3 button lifts for the green slopes. After that all the pistes are accessed with chairlifts.
Progressing on to easy blues and the central Gentiane blue run not only gives stunning views from the top but an easy and enjoyable descent. There is a wider Aconit blue run which has steeper sections to progress on. For the best views there is the beautiful Crêtes blue run along the top leading down to a choice of blue runs to descend. The wider Chardon blue run is easier than the adjacent Crêtes blue run back down to the restaurant. The final section is a narrower run but is short and easy to navigate. After this there is a great selection of other blues, reds and some blacks to explore and enjoy. Boarders can try their hand at the Freestyle Park and the more experienced often try out the off piste skiing to be found between all the runs, making Cauterets a great place to improve technique and check out some great powder skiing.
The restaurant and café has two levels, a bar/café on the ground floor, with a large sun terrace and deckchairs outside. The larger bar/café and restaurant is on the first floor with another sun terrace, perfect to enjoy a good selection of well priced food.
The Village
Cauterets is a historic Victorian thermal spa town and year round mountain resort with some beautiful architecture not often found in ski resorts. There is a wide range of restaurants serving delicious regional food, plus a good selection of cafes, bars, shops and ski and equipment hire shops to visit. There are two small supermarkets in town, a larger one on the entrance to Cauterets plus a covered market and many specialist shops selling the best of this region's gourmand products including local wines, cheeses, duck, cured hams and famous 'tourtes' a large muffin like cake. In town you can find thermal spas, perfect to relax in after skiing, a cinema, casino, ice rink, swimming pool, creche, games rooms and play areas, mini golf and even a climbing wall.
Within a 15 minute drive is the stunning Pont d'Espagne and Pyrenees National Park where you can go snow shoe walking, tobogganing and cross country skiing through snow covered trees and along beautiful valleys surrounded by the white peaks of the Pyrenees. This very typical French resort has not been spoilt by tourism and ongoing investment has ensured its continuing success. Well known with the French and Spanish skiers, it is not yet so well known amongst the British Skiers.
Our Recommendations
With the great range of food shops available, self catering is an excellent and good value option when staying in Cauterets.
Based in the town centre and overlooking the river and mountains is the English run 'Mulcares in the Pyrenees' self catering apartments. Here you can choose from a range of 7 stylish and comfortable apartments with private riverside balconies. The largest and most spacious three bedroom apartment 'Vignemale', named after the nearby mountain, sleeps 6-8 people. At the other end of the scale is the smaller well equipped studio apartment 'Mamelon Vert' perfect for 2 people. The English family hosts are on hand everyday in the Welcome Room to help you organise any of your activities or skiing requirements, provide you with all the important local knowledge and to offer the essential free tea and locally made cakes at the end of a good days skiing.
Described by past guests as 'simply the best in town'.
www.mulcares.com
Restaurants
There is a wide range of good restaurants in town to choose from, one that has been getting the most rave reviews recently is the excellent 'En So de Bedau', run by the larger than life character and owner David (look out for the large black beret and pictures of goats!). This little restaurant serves up a mouth watering menu of some of the best regional foods in a friendly atmosphere and at great prices.
For a more upmarket eating experience but one that doesn't break the budget you can try just out of town on the way up to the Pont d'Espagne 'L'abri du Benques' located by a waterfall. This restaurant with a log fire inside, serves a beautifully presented menu of local specialities with a more modern take.
For a more rustic and truly mountain experience and one that requires a walk (often in snowshoes) to get to, is the superb 'Reine Hortense' Overlooking the town up at 1500m the owner serves up hearty mountain food cooked on an open fire. Not great for vegetarians, but if you like real steaks, duck and delicious potatoes cooked in garlic then the effort to get here is well worth it.
For an après-ski drink why not have a vin chaud at the 'Ski Bar' in the town centre, either inside the wooden alpine style bar or outside whilst watching the world go by. The trendy set often go to the lively 'Café du Commerce' after a days skiing or boarding to enjoy the music and more buzzy atmosphere of this great little bar.

